Salvatore Ferragamo
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, March 1, 2009
By Nicole Phelps
Cristina Ortiz has had a tough go of it so far at Salvatore Ferragamo, her first two collections turning out more louche than ladylike. Happily, her third effort is much more polished and cultivated. Credit goes mostly to the tailoring: vaguely forties-ish jackets with hunched shoulders and diagonally cropped bell sleeves worn with pencil skirts or tapered and cropped trousers. One great-looking red dress with a high neck and an accent on the waist demonstrated that she's quite handy at sophisticated draping, too. Also in the plus column was her restrained approach to accessorizing, with fewer handbags making the runway.Toward the end, though, Ortiz couldn't resist flashing some skin. She gets a pass for the dresses with sculptural, plunging necklines—more or less in keeping with the general sensibility of the collection—but not for the sheer sweaters. These were ill-considered bits of frivolousness that did nothing but distract from the perfectly elegant long skirts with which they were paired.
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Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan Hutson -
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Iceberg Io Ipse Idem Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Ossie Clark -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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