A rumor that Alice Dellal would be taking a turn on Francesco Scognamiglio's catwalk raised the buzz level there today. In the end she was a no-show, but the new faces drawn into the crowd were treated to the designer's most retail-ready collection yet. The curious got an eyeful of his tailoring chops and flair for the dramatic blouse (this season with ruffs running down the sleeves), while his followers got an eye-opener: Scognamiglio can really do knits. A black sweater dress laminated with gold had a vintage quality that made it the lineup's most interesting piece.

In the not so distant past, Scognamiglio has been guilty of rhinestone-studded latex and see-through plastic pants. This time, a few sheer tops aside, he restricted his more outrageous impulses to the accessories. Heavy gold-studded boots that gave the models a hard time earned him a demerit, while Philip Treacy's absolutely towering gendarme and hussar hats earned him a gold star. This label's profile is likely to continue on the uptick.