Gap
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, March 23, 2009
By Sarah Mower
High fashion has had its say, but what of the democratic point of view for Fall? According to Gap's Patrick Robinson, it's going to be "about people walking into the store and eyeing things they think might be three times the price of what they'd expect to see, but then finding out they're a fourth of what they thought." To wit: black, curly shearling jackets and vests; a cute knit-sleeved toggle-fastened peacoat; a dark indigo denim trench; and a super-desirable pair of high, chunky-heeled sheepskin Pierre Hardy boots, among much else. All these were lined up on a podium—a casual style of presenting Robinson has made a Gap signature over three seasons—only this time, the location was the old flower market Covent Garden in London, not New York.Why? Gap has deep American roots, but the brand is now designed by internationally minded U.S., European, and Japanese teams that Robinson directs out of New York, and this is the first stage of a new Gap road-show strategy demonstrating their joined-up thinking. (Next stop, for Spring 2010, will be Tokyo.) Mostly, Robinson says, they're thinking about layered sportswear with a smarter edge and exacting proportions. The classic pocket tee has been rethought in drapey washed silk; a new chino comes cut with a skinny stovepipe leg, "so it can also be rolled up and worn with a high sandal"; and the ombré-dyed twinset knits have been elongated to look right over leggings. And where denim appeared, it had obviously been more influenced by the European collaboration between Lanvin and Acne (all tailored, deep-indigo dyed pieces) than traditional western workwear. Not to say there weren't familiar Gap moments—comfortable brown-toned Navajo knits for holiday, for starters.
If there's a criticism, the collection could have used more color, along the lines of the single cornflower blue silk top that stood out in the mix. True, the rest of fashion has toned itself down to shades of gray and black, so these looks will fit right in with the season's agendas. But a tiny shot of trend-bucking American optimism wouldn't have gone amiss.
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Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hutson -
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Iceberg Io Ipse Idem Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Ossie Clark -
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Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh Twenty8Twelve -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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William Rast Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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