Giorgio Armani
MILAN, February 27, 2009
By Nicole Phelps
"Aesthetics and shapes have been chosen to update the somewhat theatrical impact of eighties-style fashion," read Giorgio Armani's program notes. Fashion is obsessed all over again with that decade, and who better to revisit the era than the man who put his own stamp on it? Armani recaptured the power-woman vibe of the time via patent leather berets and gloves, wide belts, fire-engine red lips, and a soundtrack that featured a Grace Jones tune and a medley of Tina Turner hits.There was nothing really retro about this show, though—aside from the very old-school turns the designer's models made halfway down the runway, the better to show off his swingy knit capes. Peel away the accessories and the makeup, and what remained was the soft tailoring and sparkly evening looks Armani has never stopped doing. Jackets were cut slim, smart, and fitted. The best of the bunch came sans lapels, with a single button in front and a little flare in back, although a silver crocodile stamped leather number was also an eye-catcher. The leggings-tight, slightly cropped trousers may be too unforgiving for many customers, but there were also inverted-pleat tulip skirts worn with opaque black tights.
At the Oscars, Armani demonstrated his range, dressing both Sophia Loren and Anne Hathaway. The crystal-studded flat satin boots he showed here won't make it from the runway to the red carpet, but the bejeweled slipdresses and one-shoulder looks in shades of gray are a convincing argument that, whatever the decade, this designer knows how to work a winning formula.
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Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hutson -
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Iceberg Io Ipse Idem Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Ossie Clark -
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Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh Twenty8Twelve -
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William Rast Wunderkind -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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