February 26, 2009 Milan
They opened with a pagoda-shouldered coat with seams lined in tiny, burnished gold studs and a stand-up Elizabethan collar. A peak-shouldered jacket, jumpsuit, and dress, all in black, intermingled with the pagodas—but it wasn't just a silhouette story they were telling. Aquilano and Rimondi have an eye for texture. A pair of jackets combined bouclé, cashmere, and alpaca for a genius moiré effect. Sometimes things did get clunky. Tape and paillette embroidery weighed down one lean skirt, and a few bubble dresses nearly suffocated the willowy models. But an evening dress in bottle-green velvet, crepe marocain, and duchesse satin was as chic as anything that's come down the runway this season. Whatever happens to the house of Ferré, these two have a long future ahead of them.