Haider Ackermann
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, March 7, 2009
By Nicole Phelps
A bigger venue, a more convenient time slot, important faces in the crowd—has Haider Ackermann finally arrived? The beautiful collection he showed today certainly suggests he deserves every bit of the newfound attention.The designer has developed something of a cult following for the seductive way he can wrap and drape a long dress and construct the tiniest, supplest leather jackets around. Both of these signatures returned for Fall, the former in a thicker knit with asymmetric shoulder lines, bare expanses of back, and a daring hip-high slit up one leg. The latter came in bold-for-Ackermann shades of ruby and violet, as well as in burnished gold sequins.
Where this collection upped the ante was with new embroideries and an assured hand for mannish tailoring. "She's coming from nowhere and brings her treasures with her," Ackermann said of his muse, adding that "she's not androgynous, but there's that side to her and she's trying to bring it out." A racerback tank with a ravaged, uneven hem was embellished all over with silver flower embroideries that reappeared as tuxedo stripes down the sides of slouchy, tapered pants. A long, silver-fringed scarf worn with one of his floor-length, bias-cut silk skirts did double duty as a top. On the more masculine side, he showed the season's oversize blazer in washed brown silk and a pajama set in purple satin. Still, it's his little jackets that set the heart thumping. The best, a corseted cutaway tailcoat in cranberry, worn with a long silk-satin skirt with a train, could increase Ackermann's reach still further: It would make an inspired red-carpet choice for a lithe Hollywood type with an adventurous spirit.
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Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan Hutson -
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Iceberg Io Ipse Idem Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Ossie Clark -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh Twenty8Twelve -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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William Rast Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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