Hussein Chalayan
PARIS, March 8, 2009
By Sarah Mower
Hussein Chalayan is one of fashion's least likely suspects to have developed a late interest in sexy dressing. Yet for Fall, that's what seems to have come over him. With hemlines sliced to buttock-grazing level, thigh-high waders suspended from bondage garters, and a glimpse of leather corseting under cutout tailoring, it was, to say the least, a bit of a surprise.Followers of Chalayan's interest in high concept might have been more focused on his use of art-based technological fabrics. The first pieces he sent out looked almost like faceted gray concrete—they were, in fact, acetate foam—shaped into coats, funnel-neck tops, and abbreviated dresses. He'd named the collection "Earthbound"—referring to the way he'd looked at the urban streets around him in London. That gave rise, later, to prints of fences, asphalt, and manhole covers, all in shades of gray.
Like so many others, Chalayan also used his international-audience airtime to show his selling pieces: a couple of good leather jackets, and regular, honed-down black coats and blazers. Still, this was not a season in which Chalayan mustered one of his mind-blowingly memorable performances, and the high-minded intelligentsia that pays avid attention to his every thought might just need a little push to see itself getting out and about with so much body on show.
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Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan Hutson -
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Iceberg Io Ipse Idem Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Ossie Clark -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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