February 13, 2009 New York
Last season their womenswear line, Daughters, had begun to move away from its roots in his-and-her suiting with more dresses, knits, and softer separates among the masculine/feminine fare. With Hutson, the team intends to widen that gender divide. For Fall they used more substantial fabrications and stiffer constructions than they had for Spring, like a boiled wool stiffened with a canvas lining and a thick croc-stamped leather that Christina described as "armored versions" of the thirties looks that had been their inspiration. Though quite beautifully executed and perfect for a picture, such strict pieces may not be an easy sell. More likely to make it on the sales floor were Poiret-esque coats in faux fur or a microfiber that approximated feathers. The suit was still here in various forms, from a back-zipped mohair jacket and little shorts that pushed the limits of the form to a more traditional boxy angora jacket with wide-cropped pants. The Hutsons are top tailors, so it's natural that their suiting will draw the most attention. But they have respectably moved out of their comfort zone, and might just be headed back up to the top of the hill.