's Paolo Gerani can be counted on to nail the trends. Volume, fur, chunky knits, neons—he had them all, plus the season's glossy red lips for good measure. But wearability too often seemed like an afterthought at his Fall show. A hot pink heavy-gauge cable-knit sweater topping a black python-stamped stretchy skirt is one thing, but a strapless dress made of the stuff isn't likely to go over with this collection's target audience of lithe young party types—can you picture dancing in the thing?
What worked were the more body-conscious looks, like a purple jersey number inset at the waist with an hourglass-enhancing panel of black quilting. The Robert Indiana LOVE
sculpture intarsia sweater dresses, meanwhile, made a clever follow-up to last season's Jeff Koons prints. They were a sweet reprieve from the show's aggressive styling.