Issa
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, February 23, 2009
By Tim Blanks
The models' hair and makeup made them look like Roxy Music cover girls, but I dialed forward a decade to Duran Duran's "Rio," not just because Issa queen-pin Daniella Helayel is Brazilian, but because the clothes looked like the kind of easy, draped, dramatic pieces that might have been worn by party girls in the eighties. That decade's confident brashness could be traced through the zebra-print blouson, the fire-engine red blouse and cherry skirt, the jumpsuit with beaded zebra-patterned bodice and straps, and the graphic black and white tunic over leggings. So far, so logical. Except that Helayel had actually been looking at monks' robes! (Issa's always been a hard habit to break for Helayel's front row of firm, pouting beauties.) So the draped goddess dresses were, in fact, a carnal twist on the outfits worn by men of God. Likewise the black dress that gathered on one hip and the hood on a black velvet jacket delicately traced with beading. Any one of these outfits would turn the head of the local padre. A Brazilian Thorn Birds? Well, that's one of the more intriguing narratives of the week.
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Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear
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Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hutson -
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Iceberg Io Ipse Idem Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Ossie Clark -
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Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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