Jaeger London
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, February 22, 2009
By Tim Blanks
Iconic mannequin Carmen dell'Orefice's presence in the front row of the latest Jaeger show was a reminder that exactly 50 years ago, she was photographed semi-naked on a Caribbean beach by Norman Parkinson for a Jaeger campaign. That was a memorable moment in the brand's 125-year history. Karen Boyd, the brand's current head of design, tried to create another with a dark, dramatic collection that was a little too contrived to be entirely successful. The first look, for instance, was a strapless jumpsuit with a boxy little pagoda-shouldered jacket striped in black and ecru, like something from Glasgow's Arts and Crafts movement (Chris Kane featured a similar motif in his show earlier in the day). The same shoulder and the same banding dominated the show. They gave it a retro feel (sort of sci-fi retro, like Blade Runner), which came through elsewhere, in a polka-dotted tea dress, say, or an Art Deco print of glass shards, or a kimono coat in black and a shagreenlike shade of green. (Echoes of the archives, perhaps?) A lot of effort went into the textiles: hammered silks, boiled wools, crocheted overskirts, lacelike perforations, lacquering, and several herds of alpaca, which shed their pelts for skirts, jackets, and coats. But all that work wasn't so well served by the uniform darkness of the palette. Alternatives to the black were icily pale, almost android shades of green, blue, and cream.
/
/
/
see all designers ›
Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear
#
|
A
|
B
|
C
|
D
|
E
|
F
|
G
|
H
|
I
|
J
|
K
|
L
|
M
|
N
|
O
|
P
|
R
|
S
|
T
|
U
|
V
|
W
|
Y
|
Z
|
-
#
3.1 Phillip Lim -
A
-
B
-
C
-
D
-
E
Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
F
Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
G
Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
H
Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hutson -
I
Iceberg Io Ipse Idem Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
J
-
K
Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
L
L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
M
-
N
Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
O
Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Ossie Clark -
P
Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
R
-
S
Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
T
Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh Twenty8Twelve -
U
Undercover United Bamboo -
V
-
W
William Rast Wunderkind -
Y
Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
Z
Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
ERROR:
