Juan Carlos Obando
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 18, 2009
By Meenal Mistry
Juan Carlos Obando called his Fall collection "a tribute to women who love fashion." However, the designer wasn't just talking about any girl who loves an afternoon at Barneys. Specifically, Obando meant a woman, quite like his sometime muse Liz Goldwyn, who lives and dies for craftsmanship. At 25 looks, Fall was the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund finalist's biggest collection shown in New York. He opened strong with a trio of short dresses crafted with his intricate twisting, pleating, and draping technique. Angelic and all-white, they were almost smudged here and there with color: pink, purple, or gray. Obando further flexed his atelier expertise in looks done up in flat, razored chiffon ruffles and waving scalloped layers. But the ethereal was only half the story. He injected a sportswear aspect into the precious proceedings by cutting things down to smart jackets and tops, which were then paired with slim silk pants made from his recent discovery, silk wool. With that fabric, Obando entered experimental mode, doing stiff constructed dresses and boxy tops, plain in front and with a dramatic sculptural flourish in back. With the twisted knots of silver beads (surprisingly and ingeniously light) and a halo of curls, the effect suggested a wonderfully mad lunching lady. A few fit hiccups made those dresses and suits a work in progress, but the series of white jersey gowns that closed the show sailed by as breezy and beautiful as can be.
/
/
/
see all designers ›
Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear
#
|
A
|
B
|
C
|
D
|
E
|
F
|
G
|
H
|
I
|
J
|
K
|
L
|
M
|
N
|
O
|
P
|
R
|
S
|
T
|
U
|
V
|
W
|
Y
|
Z
|
-
#
3.1 Phillip Lim -
A
-
B
-
C
-
D
-
E
Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
F
Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
G
Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
H
Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hutson -
I
Iceberg Io Ipse Idem Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
J
-
K
Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
L
L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
M
-
N
Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
O
Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Ossie Clark -
P
Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
R
-
S
Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
T
Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh Twenty8Twelve -
U
Undercover United Bamboo -
V
-
W
William Rast Wunderkind -
Y
Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
Z
Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
ERROR:
