is the third designer in London to mention geology as his inspiration. Where Marios Schwab and Graeme Black looked at mineral deposits (as Peter Pilotto did last season), Goot was thinking of "the organic lines of stone, and cutting and chiseling it." Essentially, the idea led to delicately color-blocked neutral and black tailoring for Fall. A long section of cream and black jackets, pants, skirts, and dresses were, in some cases, cleverly constructed so that half a jacket was cream and the other black. After that came ripple effects that looked like contour lines on maps. The minimal sportswear look had an urban ease about it, but the audience was waiting for something more: a new representation of the prints that followers are beginning to expect from Goot. They were a long time coming, and attention flagged until they finally showed up as speckled patterns derived from rocks. They missed the vibrant punch of Goot's work last year, and by the end there was a sense that the collection could have been condensed by a third and still have got its message across.