Jill Stuart
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 16, 2009
By Meenal Mistry
Jill Stuart wants to rock—sartorially, that is. And so she did with a Fall collection inspired by "iconic women of music." Stuart mentioned Françoise Hardy, but also very present in this louche mix of leather, lace, and velvet were Anita Pallenberg, Stevie Nicks, and even a touch of early Madonna. As she's done in the past, Stuart played the look both ways—dark and vixen-y on the one hand and angelic on the other. In the latter camp was an ivory tailcoat on Marina Peres, worn, as most looks were, with a tilted fedora topped with lace flowers that immediately said: Bianca—Mick—wedding day. The many dandified tailcoats and use of millinery throughout served as the necessary masculine foil to Stuart's typically very girlish leanings. Leather pants, topped with fringed, webby knits or lace poet blouses, did the same. Then again, Stuart can't forget her core customer, who loves a pretty, straightforward frock, so a floral embroidered blush chiffon dress and a black bugle-beaded number slipped in without rippling the surface. The same can't be said of a plain black princess coat that made its wearer look like she'd taken a wrong turn somewhere. Perhaps she was the chaperone. After all, with a group of young girls wearing so much eye makeup, there's bound to be some bad behavior.
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Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hutson -
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Iceberg Io Ipse Idem Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Ossie Clark -
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Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh Twenty8Twelve -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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William Rast Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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