J. Mendel
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 18, 2009
By Laird Borrelli-Persson
Gilles Mendel, who presented his clothes in vignettes at the Chelsea Art Museum to much acclaim last season, was back in the tents for Fall. Why? Because, Mendel explained, his "hard-edged" clothes were about "an attitude" and needed to be seen in motion. It was the right choice, if only in the sense that the handwork details that made close-up viewing so exciting last Spring were nowhere to be seen. Missing was the color and craftsmanship that is the core of the J. Mendel brand identity. (Fur, of course, is also at the label's heart, and the designer used it sparingly, too—although a double-faced wool coat with broadtail inserts deserves mention.) There was but a glimmer of the old J. Mendel glamour in the beribboned, jewel-toned chiffon gowns that closed the show. So what happened? Mendel said he was putting more emphasis on daywear, but 40 looks later the audience was left searching for any message in this collection.
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Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hutson -
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Iceberg Io Ipse Idem Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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