Wunderkind
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, March 11, 2009
By Nicole Phelps
Wolfgang Joop's Fall Wunderkind collection was inspired by Suprematism, the early-twentieth-century Russian abstract art movement founded by Kazimir Malevich, as well as by the work of contemporary German artist Gregor Törzs. The results are a strong argument that art is often better left on walls. Malevich's rectangle and square paintings became the basis for a colorful geometric print that appeared on chiffon dresses. Worn with matching tights or sequined leggings stitched in the same graphic pattern, the frocks were quite an eyeful. Törzs' depictions of cheetahs and deer, meanwhile, were printed onto wool coats, which detracted from the garments rather than elevating them. In fact, the strongest looks in the collection were the first ones to hit the runway. These showed Joop's prowess as a tailor, and, with their padded hips and on-trend forties power shoulders, suggested he does possess the ability to design relevant clothes.
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Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hutson -
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Iceberg Io Ipse Idem Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Ossie Clark -
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Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh Twenty8Twelve -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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