Jonathan Saunders
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 15, 2009
By Nicole Phelps
Searching for a symbol of strength, Jonathan Saunders alighted on the notion of birds. It made for a colorful collection, even by this designer's typically electric standards. A lot of attention was focused on the torso, via cutouts or panels of metallic and iridescent beads, and on the shoulders, which were either built-up and sharp, or swaddled in folds and gathers of fabric. Saunders was a print designer first, and a zigzag pattern he created as a student at Central Saint Martins made an appearance here. There were also abstracted feathers on chiffon and a tribal print on a jacquard weave. The show was almost exclusively dresses and coats, so legs were the other focal point. The models, who wore black head stockings, strutted around the runway in booties, wedges, or platform pumps studded with brightly hued crystals.If it sounds like there was a lot going on, there was. But it was held together, for the most part, by a rigorous color palette—crimson, marigold, teal, and black—and a recurring silhouette that was fitted above the waist and softly flaring below. Still, the most successful looks were the most streamlined, like a pair of red floor-length columns. One had swags of black fabric at the shoulders and was cinched with a wide tribal belt; the other had undulating black racing stripes down the sides and around the décolletage, making the most of the model's own natural curves.
/
/
/
see all designers ›
Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear
#
|
A
|
B
|
C
|
D
|
E
|
F
|
G
|
H
|
I
|
J
|
K
|
L
|
M
|
N
|
O
|
P
|
R
|
S
|
T
|
U
|
V
|
W
|
Y
|
Z
|
-
#
3.1 Phillip Lim -
A
-
B
-
C
-
D
-
E
Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
F
Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
G
Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
H
Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hutson -
I
Iceberg Io Ipse Idem Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
J
-
K
Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
L
L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
M
-
N
Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
O
Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Ossie Clark -
P
Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
R
-
S
Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
T
Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh Twenty8Twelve -
U
Undercover United Bamboo -
V
-
W
William Rast Wunderkind -
Y
Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
Z
Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
ERROR:
