Kenzo
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, March 11, 2009
By Tim Blanks
Antonio Marras' response to fashion's fiscal woes was an escape into the romance of Mother Russia—with winsomely detailed show notes rolled up inside little matryoshka dolls that waited on everyone's seat. A passing nod to Doctor Zhivago cued the designer's focus on love in a time of revolution: For every folkloric flounce there was a Bolshevik reference, too. It made for a collection of distinct contrasts: the pouf-sleeved, tiered dress in a gilded floral print that opened the show, say, versus a jacket and skirt of transfigured military fatigues. An army jacket over a floor-sweeping skirt brought to mind Diane Keaton in Reds, but Marras was rarely that literal. One apparatchik ensemble was banded in fur; peasant patchwork was quilted into a high-necked coat-dress; another coat might have been suitable for the front line if it hadn't been sequined in gold.There was a lot of inspiration in Marras' source materials—all those "lonely dachas," as he put it, filled with embroideries, tapestries, and carpets. He ramped up the florals in a series of draped dresses, but the show's doses of floor-length action made it hard to escape the lingering sense that the air in those lonely dachas might be a bit stuffy. A cable-knit dress studded with holly berries (that's holly, not Halle) scarcely blew out the cobwebs.
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Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan Hutson -
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Iceberg Io Ipse Idem Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Ossie Clark -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh Twenty8Twelve -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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William Rast Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
