Karl Lagerfeld
PARIS, March 8, 2009
By Tim Blanks
The ever-onward Karl Lagerfeld is not inclined to the backward glance. So in a season when everyone else is doing their version of the 1980's, a decade he helped define, it made perfect sense that he was focused on the 2080's—or, OK, at least the future. The metal-machine music of Metronomy introduced a collection whose thrust was technology and architecture. The models wore fur helmets with inset iPods (cushioning against the crash?), and Lagerfeld referred to the built-out shoulder that defined the silhouette as "the bridge."As ever, this signature line was defined by a handful of branded elements: a leanness accentuated by the skinniest pants in Paris; a masculine, even military, hardness; a hint of the Vienna Secession in draped, black-velvet-banded eveningwear. This time, however, those "bridge" shoulders added a warrior-woman edge. And the long, languid line that formerly characterized the Lagerfeld label was replaced by a more structured look in short-sleeved jackets and skirts in silvered tweeds and mélange fabrics. But even Karl couldn't completely avoid an echo of everyone else's eighties. A square-shouldered, severely tailored black suit was right out of the closet of Rachael the Replicant from Blade Runner, 1982's definitive style guide. Interestingly, it was one of the show's more persuasive looks.
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Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan Hutson -
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Iceberg Io Ipse Idem Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Ossie Clark -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh Twenty8Twelve -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
