March 07, 2009 Paris
As ever, this signature line was defined by a handful of branded elements: a leanness accentuated by the skinniest pants in Paris; a masculine, even military, hardness; a hint of the Vienna Secession in draped, black-velvet-banded eveningwear. This time, however, those "bridge" shoulders added a warrior-woman edge. And the long, languid line that formerly characterized the Lagerfeld label was replaced by a more structured look in short-sleeved jackets and skirts in silvered tweeds and mélange fabrics. But even Karl couldn't completely avoid an echo of everyone else's eighties. A square-shouldered, severely tailored black suit was right out of the closet of Rachael the Replicant from Blade Runner, 1982's definitive style guide. Interestingly, it was one of the show's more persuasive looks.