In his program notes, Christophe Lemaire name-dropped Diane Keaton, Princess Leia, André Courrèges, James Turrell…and René Lacoste, bien sûr
. But his Fall show for Lacoste
was hardly about such highfalutin references. This heavily layered collection, rendered in calming colors like winter white, pale blue, gray, and yellow, was retail-ready rather than fashion-forward. If the ties and wrap belts and stripes produced a sense of déjà vu from past shows, the clothes were also eminently wearable: Double-face coats looked luxe and jersey jackets sporty. Lemaire's success came in capturing the comfort and ease of a lazy Sunday morning—with a soupçon of that French je ne sais quoi. It's a message with undeniable appeal in these turbulent times.