Luisa Beccaria
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, February 28, 2009
By Nicole Phelps
Luisa Beccaria presented her Fall collection at the Villa Necchi Campiglio, a newly restored onetime private Milanese residence built in the early thirties. The parquet floors, high ceilings, and bookshelf-lined walls were a good match for Beccaria's unapologetically romantic vision. These clothes looked like they could have stepped out of a period movie, or perhaps been pulled from the mansion's upstairs closets, where original Chanel and Gucci creations still hang.The designer said she was putting a new emphasis on daywear. Her first models floated across the villa's parlor floor wearing shirtwaist dresses in powdery shades of silk and portrait-collar skirtsuits in metallic tweeds. If those were too precious, a striking sleeveless belted sheath, in a dégradé fabric that shaded from gold at the shoulders to deep blue at the hem, had real-world potential.
The dreaminess factor can make Beccaria's party numbers sing. Tops for after dark were the scalloped metallic-lace mermaid dresses with trains. Even in a time of downscaling, those should help further raise her profile on both the New York City party circuit and the red carpet.
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Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear
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Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan Hutson -
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Iceberg Io Ipse Idem Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Ossie Clark -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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