Limi Feu
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, March 11, 2009
By Tim Blanks
Edwardian England shaped modern Japan's notions of menswear, so the waistcoat has always been a building block for designers like Issey, Yohji, and Rei. You can add Limi to the list. The designer worked it every which way in her new collection, making for one of the male/female interplays that has become as much her signature as that of her father, Yamamoto père.In Limi's hands, the vest came full and double-breasted over sailor pants tucked into kneesocks. It was shrunken to nothing over a bright white shirt, or shown with little cap sleeves, or elongated into asymmetrical points (over a white cotton shirtdress), or even combined in a waistcoat/jacket hybrid. The reworking of one idea through the course of a show is something of a Japanese design tic, but Limi had fun with it, turning her chosen item into a fur gilet tied at the back, a big cross-belted knit, and a cardigan scarf.
A spirit of play has always made this designer's work stand out from the rest of the Tokyo tribe. And this season, even though there was an elegant maturity to a bouclé coat or a funnel-collared tweed suit shot through with Lurex, that was balanced by flapper dresses of fringed knit (worn with fluoro stockings) and tiered, coin-dotted tulles. Those said Limi's not getting all grown-up and serious on us just yet.
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Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hutson -
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Iceberg Io Ipse Idem Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Ossie Clark -
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Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh Twenty8Twelve -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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William Rast Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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