March 10, 2009 Paris
In Limi's hands, the vest came full and double-breasted over sailor pants tucked into kneesocks. It was shrunken to nothing over a bright white shirt, or shown with little cap sleeves, or elongated into asymmetrical points (over a white cotton shirtdress), or even combined in a waistcoat/jacket hybrid. The reworking of one idea through the course of a show is something of a Japanese design tic, but Limi had fun with it, turning her chosen item into a fur gilet tied at the back, a big cross-belted knit, and a cardigan scarf.
A spirit of play has always made this designer's work stand out from the rest of the Tokyo tribe. And this season, even though there was an elegant maturity to a bouclé coat or a funnel-collared tweed suit shot through with Lurex, that was balanced by flapper dresses of fringed knit (worn with fluoro stockings) and tiered, coin-dotted tulles. Those said Limi's not getting all grown-up and serious on us just yet.