Edwardian England shaped modern Japan's notions of menswear, so the waistcoat has always been a building block for designers like Issey, Yohji, and Rei. You can add Limi to the list. The designer worked it every which way in her new collection, making for one of the male/female interplays that has become as much her signature as that of her father, Yamamoto père.

In Limi's hands, the vest came full and double-breasted over sailor pants tucked into kneesocks. It was shrunken to nothing over a bright white shirt, or shown with little cap sleeves, or elongated into asymmetrical points (over a white cotton shirtdress), or even combined in a waistcoat/jacket hybrid. The reworking of one idea through the course of a show is something of a Japanese design tic, but Limi had fun with it, turning her chosen item into a fur gilet tied at the back, a big cross-belted knit, and a cardigan scarf.

A spirit of play has always made this designer's work stand out from the rest of the Tokyo tribe. And this season, even though there was an elegant maturity to a bouclé coat or a funnel-collared tweed suit shot through with Lurex, that was balanced by flapper dresses of fringed knit (worn with fluoro stockings) and tiered, coin-dotted tulles. Those said Limi's not getting all grown-up and serious on us just yet.