Luca Luca
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 16, 2009
By Alison Baenen
A few seasons in, Raul Melgoza is honing his point of view. The challenge? To honor the brand's history as a favorite of the social set—a go-to label for bright colors and playful cocktail frocks—while ushering in a certain architectural cleanliness to keep things from getting overdone. "Strong in character and feminine in look" is how the designer described the Luca Luca image, and he stuck to an understated palette of charcoal and burgundy with jewel-tone teal now and again. For the most part, the collection was quite refined, with luxurious embellishments, oversize cocktail jewelry, and (a first for Melgoza) fur. One wool-knit vest layered in fox was shown as a belted dress—albeit a short one. The emphasis, though, was on suiting, with the flat-front silk-wool pants that opened the show being one of the most chic options. The sparkle on a few of the evening gowns was reminiscent, unfortunately, of a figure skater's costume, but otherwise the glitz and glitter were downplayed. (The opulent setting, in the Palm Court at the Plaza, more than made up for that.)
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Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear
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Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan Hutson -
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Iceberg Io Ipse Idem Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Ossie Clark -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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