A few seasons in, Raul Melgoza is honing his point of view. The challenge? To honor the brand's history as a favorite of the social set—a go-to label for bright colors and playful cocktail frocks—while ushering in a certain architectural cleanliness to keep things from getting overdone. "Strong in character and feminine in look" is how the designer described the Luca Luca image, and he stuck to an understated palette of charcoal and burgundy with jewel-tone teal now and again. For the most part, the collection was quite refined, with luxurious embellishments, oversize cocktail jewelry, and (a first for Melgoza) fur. One wool-knit vest layered in fox was shown as a belted dress—albeit a short one. The emphasis, though, was on suiting, with the flat-front silk-wool pants that opened the show being one of the most chic options. The sparkle on a few of the evening gowns was reminiscent, unfortunately, of a figure skater's costume, but otherwise the glitz and glitter were downplayed. (The opulent setting, in the Palm Court at the Plaza, more than made up for that.)