The twentysomethings and teens that the Marc by Marc Jacobs collection targets are perfect candidates for the sort of eighties Danceteria redux the designer pulled off so brilliantly at his "big sister" show. After all, they were either in diapers or missed the decade entirely the first time around. But Jacobs took a sharp turn off the island of Manhattan circa 1984 for his kid-sister line.

That's not to say that it wasn't fun. It's just that in their hiking boots and woolly socks, striped tights, blanket scarves, and felt Molly Ringwald hats, his models looked more like junior mountaineers than they did club-hoppers. They were the good twins to his signature line's hellions in neon.

As always, it was a mad mix. The components this time around were argyle or intarsia sweaters, belted oversize herringbone sports jackets, baggy wide-wale corduroy shorts, union suits, and a striking red windowpane-plaid dress with pointy shoulders that hinted at the proportions seen on his runway last night. But in the end, vintage-feel shirtwaist dresses, one or two shot through with Lurex, are as rocking as the M.M.J. girl will get this season.