Marchesa
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 18, 2009
By Meenal Mistry
Lots of designers are talking escapism this week, but for Marchesa, dreamy flights of fancy are actually their stock-in-trade. And it was business as usual at the Chelsea Art Museum, where a dense crowd that included Natalia Vodianova, Diane Kruger, and Helena Christensen flowed, oohing and aahing, around tulle-swathed models perched on white cubes. "I wanted the whole thing to be like a fairy tale," explained Marchesa's designer, Georgina Chapman. "I wanted to have fantasy." The 25 looks ably ran the gamut of what our millennial Cinderellas and Snow Whites (also known as A-listers) might clamor to wear. On offer was Marchesa's fail-safe classic Grecian in a fresh lilac; an elegant black gown with flat tulle tiers that looked like they were dipped in sequins; a cloud of black tulle over sequins belted with a ribbon bow; and the drama of a full-skirted pewter tulle gown embroidered with silver roses, topped with a bow on its bodice.Balancing the seesaw of some dream-woven dresses that actually appeared to defy the laws of physics were two looks with black pants, something that Chapman insists she's always included. (We checked: She's right.) There was something quite striking about these lean matte trousers, one pair worn with a little peplum top and the other more dramatically shown with a draped chiffon tunic inset with a corset. But, striking or not, we have a feeling they'll be left aside when most of these confections are packed up for their trip to the Oscars this weekend.
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Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear
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Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan Hutson -
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Iceberg Io Ipse Idem Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Ossie Clark -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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