Another knitwear talent is on the loose from the Central Saint Martin's M.A., this time via Canada. He's Mark Fast, one of the two designers who passed the rigors of the New Generation selection committee this season. "It's time for a rebellion against safeness. It's exciting to be a designer now," said Fast, who was charged up like many others in London by thinking about a powerful natural phenomenon as a symbol of the season: "Thunderstorms. That moment of fear and negativity, mixed with something that also feels beautiful." That was interesting as a zeitgeist-briefing, but what of the clothes? They were in the vein of body-con dressing that has been such a continuing theme in London. As well as subtle ladder stitches running over the contours of backs and hips, there were fringes made of combed viscose and boleros made of knitted velvet. If some of it had the cast of Azzedine Alaïa, who produced shapes not so far from this years ago, it was obvious this boy has something of his own, too, and will eventually make a product that can appeal to a broad constituency. At the moment, the length of the dresses really only makes them viable, outside of clubs, as T-shirts. As Fast's former professor, the straight-talking Louise Wilson, jokingly chided him backstage, "They're a bit short, aren't they? Couldn't you have knitted four more rows?"