Scaling back, Martin Grant
presented a Fall collection on mannequins in his Marais atelier. He made a few nods toward the trends: a hooded sweatshirt minidress had this season's rock 'n' roll vibe, while both a gazar coat-dress and a skirtsuit with waist-shrinking tulle padding at the hips channeled the forties. (The jacket of the suit also boasted stand-up lapels and a built-in shell for a sleek line.) But these were more likely lucky coincidences than intentional grabs at nowness. Way before the recession had everyone in fashion talking about the importance of timelessness, this Australian transplant's calling cards were classics with an attention to special details. Today, those special details included an integrated belt on a strapless L.B.D. and jumpsuit, permanent pleats on the high-waisted trousers of a pantsuit, and swags of fabric suspended from the collar of a gorgeous silk blouse that added some controlled volume at the shoulders. There was nothing scaled back about the quality of these clothes.