Martin Grant
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, March 10, 2009
By Nicole Phelps
Scaling back, Martin Grant presented a Fall collection on mannequins in his Marais atelier. He made a few nods toward the trends: a hooded sweatshirt minidress had this season's rock 'n' roll vibe, while both a gazar coat-dress and a skirtsuit with waist-shrinking tulle padding at the hips channeled the forties. (The jacket of the suit also boasted stand-up lapels and a built-in shell for a sleek line.) But these were more likely lucky coincidences than intentional grabs at nowness. Way before the recession had everyone in fashion talking about the importance of timelessness, this Australian transplant's calling cards were classics with an attention to special details. Today, those special details included an integrated belt on a strapless L.B.D. and jumpsuit, permanent pleats on the high-waisted trousers of a pantsuit, and swags of fabric suspended from the collar of a gorgeous silk blouse that added some controlled volume at the shoulders. There was nothing scaled back about the quality of these clothes.
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Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan Hutson -
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Iceberg Io Ipse Idem Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Ossie Clark -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh Twenty8Twelve -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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William Rast Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
