Moschino
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
MILAN, February 28, 2009
By Nicole Phelps
Rosella Jardini's Fall show began simply enough with a navy collarless cocoon coat, its sleeves embroidered with rosettes. But what would a Moschino show be without the trademark tricks of the eye? Enter a pair of slim wool trousers overlaid in black organza cut in the shape of jodhpurs. A smart double-breasted wool coat, meanwhile, was topped by a sheer layer of fabric with the floppy consistency of a bathrobe. The veiling technique, Jardini's show notes argued, made for two looks in one—on the coat, for example, the organza is detachable. That might seem to suggest double value for the customer, but in reality the sight gag distracted from the otherwise classic clothes. More successful was a party dress with silver embroidery that on closer inspection cleverly revealed itself to be thousands of small safety pins lined up in neat, orderly rows. And when she sent out a series of dresses with red velvet flower appliqués caged in chiffon, Jardini was firmly in control of her signature whimsy.
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Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hutson -
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Iceberg Io Ipse Idem Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Ossie Clark -
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Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh Twenty8Twelve -
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William Rast Wunderkind -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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