Nathan Jenden
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
LONDON, February 21, 2009
By Tim Blanks
The show was called "Frostbite," an oblique reference, perhaps, to the collection's chilly dominatrix edge, like Robert Palmer's video vixens filed to a much sharper point. And if that suggests the eighties, then Prince singing "Erotic City" on the soundtrack sealed the deal. Anyway, that's the magic decade for Jenden, to the point where a full-skirted white dress with a lace effect looked like something Cyndi Lauper might have gone formal in. Otherwise, the clothes were mostly black, fitted, and folded to the body. A fishnet body stocking was the foundation for a zippered dress whose precise folds looked like origami, or a trompe l'oeil layering of a man's eveningwear. There was a bandage dress (not for the first time in this eighties-infatuated season) in gray with a hint of Lurex, and a bondage outfit in a strap-draped bird's-eye jacket and pants. Other eighties touches: the huge zips that bifurcated dresses and tops, the multi-pleated pants tapering to the ankle. The mystery of "Frostbite" may have been solved, Rosebud-like, by the arrival of two dresses—a puffball, a trapeze—whose cutouts made the wearers look like giant mutant snowflakes. Yikes!
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Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hutson -
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Iceberg Io Ipse Idem Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Ossie Clark -
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Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh Twenty8Twelve -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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William Rast Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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