Phi
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 19, 2009
By Laird Borrelli-Persson
Fashion has finally caught up with Phi. Andreas Melbostad has been working the badass eighties vibe—with sophistication and finesse—for several seasons now. Each show draws a more stellar front row, attesting to the relevance of the designer's sexy take on engineered dressing."You know I love my textures," Melbostad commented prior to a show that featured lots of zippered leather, sequins, corsetry details, color-blocking (inspired by Richard Lindner's paintings), and the collaging of classic utilitarian pieces like biker, bomber, and aviator jackets into substantial, iconic-looking outerwear. (The refashioned creepers that accessorized the show added a nice of-the-moment touch.) "We really wanted to move strongly forward despite the economy," the designer said. "These times make you feel very strongly about what you represent. What we stand for is a tough urban idea but with attention to finishings, cut, and quality." All of this was effectively communicated, even if the show had too many variants on Melbostad's chosen themes. Still, aerodynamic second-skin aviator dresses and come-hither (but don't-mess-with-me) leggings are sure to fly at retail, as are his leather pieces.
Melbostad has accomplished a lot in his short tenure at Phi. Now that the pack has caught up with him, his challenge will be to stay a step ahead in seasons to come.
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Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear
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Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan Hutson -
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Iceberg Io Ipse Idem Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Ossie Clark -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
