Proenza Schouler
NEW YORK, February 18, 2009
By Nicole Phelps
Modern, sexy, and utterly cool. Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez jolted the fashion flock out of its recession fatigue tonight, delivering a knockout collection full of directional yet wearable luxe clothes. The show began with outerwear: Camel wool twill coats and jackets inset with black, some with fur collars, looked like more relatable versions of the conceptual, deconstructed toppers they did last year. These were followed by cozy-chic tweeds. Example: a bomber tossed over a marled turtleneck tucked into cuffed shorts and cabled tights (a look spotted on many an editor this week).Dresses played a big role here. A trio in midnight, spruce, and nude silk—high-necked, long-sleeved, and zippered up the back—echoed the streamlined silhouettes of race car-driver uniforms. Others, heavily worked in chevron-quilted wool satin, evoked latter-day suits of armor. Still more came in gorgeous shades of silk velvet dévoré with asymmetrical wrapped bodices. The best of the lot, though, was a violet embroidered silk dress that played nubby texture against see-through mesh. Unlike last season's show, which borrowed heavily from the arsenal of the eighties power babe, this collection referenced nothing so much as McCollough and Hernandez's own growing oeuvre. It proved that the duo don't lack for a strong vision. Boiled down to its essence? They understand what hip downtown girls want to wear.
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Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan Hutson -
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Iceberg Io Ipse Idem Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Ossie Clark -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh Twenty8Twelve -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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William Rast Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
