It wasn't clear how Peter Som
would move forward after the recent split from his financial backer, so it was a relief to hear that he was going to be on the schedule this season after all. For his self-financed capsule collection, shown by appointment, he stayed true to form. Like many designers these days, Som is returning if not to basics then to what he loves best: in his case, mixing textures and patterns while exploring "the clash of delicate/feminine with bold and graphic." So a splashy print dress was paired with a tiger-stenciled mink, and a mossy green tweed coat featured fluoro trim. This collection of Som's "favorite things" didn't necessarily evolve the designer's aesthetic, but it reinforced the case that he is the go-to man for U.E.S. types who don't want to look all matchy-matchy Blair Waldorf. The upbeat lineup, which was ladylike without being stiff, and full of optimistic color and tactile interest, reminded us why we're happy Som is part of the New York scene.