Emilio Pucci
MILAN, February 28, 2009
By Nicole Phelps
Peter Dundas is the new man at Emilio Pucci, charged with making the iconic Florence-based label and its famous prints relevant for a new generation. The Norwegian designer, who also helms the French fur house Revillon, is perhaps best known for his stint at Emanuel Ungaro. There he made fans of the young Hollywood crowd with his body-conscious, boldly colorful sensibility (did we mention he once worked for Roberto Cavalli?). Today's debut collection for Pucci was very much in that sexy spirit.The show opened with canvas military coats and jackets lined lavishly in fox fur, worn with short dresses and over-the-knee suede pirate boots or second-skin python pants. They signaled the low-high mix that defined Dundas' approach to the season. The designer carried it through even into evening, where a strapless minidress was patchworked together from faded denim and guipure lace in a swirling pattern that subtly evoked one of the house's prints.
The lack of overt Pucci references—the kind that dependably evoke the label's Capri-in-the-sixties origins—was striking. But the prints Dundas did resurrect (from a 1957 collection dubbed "Palio" after Siena's centuries-old horse race) looked fresh on slouchy cashmere long-sleeved T-shirts worn with supertight back-zip jeans. With friends like the Crown Princess of Norway, Mette-Marit, sitting in his front row, Dundas is well positioned to observe the changing lifestyles of the international jet set. Keying into the fact that these days young aristos want to look like rock stars appears to have given him a way to make Pucci timely again.
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Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hutson -
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Iceberg Io Ipse Idem Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Ossie Clark -
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Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh Twenty8Twelve -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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William Rast Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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