Rag & Bone
February 12, 2009 New York
A suitable image for the economic end-times upon us, yes—and one that gave the designers plenty of opportunity to flex their tailoring chops; to give one example, model Freja Beha Erichsen in a boxy cheviot jacket, waistcoat, and tux shirt over slouchy "haraki" pants (Rag & Bone's answer to the omnipresent dropped-crotch look).
The message wasn't entirely postapocalyptic, however. A black wool herringbone tuxedo dress had sex appeal to spare; likewise its more casual cousin, a blue chambray tuxedo shirtdress topped by a narrow gray vest. On the softer, more girlish side, there was a printed silk dress accessorized with an obilike indigo and leather quilted belt, and a skirt in the same fabric topped by a cocoon-y navy kimono cardigan. After last season's dip into England's eighties-pop subcultures, this collection felt a whole lot more modern and vital.