Requiem
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, March 10, 2009
By Nicole Phelps
Raffaele Borriello and Julien Desselle showed in the same grand venue as before, the Cercle de l'Union Interalliée, but instead of a live show they arrayed glossy black shop mannequins on their runway and even posed a few in the front row. This money-saving venture gave the duo the opportunity to walk editors and buyers up-close-and-personal through the looks and, while they were doing so, explain how they were rethinking things. Happily, they have dialed down some of the more outré proportions that had burdened previous collections, while still retaining the couture feel they like to call their hallmark.Working with intarsias, they spliced together stretch and non-stretch fabrics to create a body-conscious eighties mood in keeping with the prevailing trends. Highlights of the small line included their update of Le Smoking, a cropped black jacket with blue-edged pointy hems and shoulders à la Mugler; and blouse that mixed blush, lavender, teal, and gray silk, which was teamed with a high-waisted olive skirt; and a lone gown, fitted to the thigh then billowing to the floor below, that had real red-carpet potential.
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Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hutson -
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Iceberg Io Ipse Idem Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Ossie Clark -
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Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh Twenty8Twelve -
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William Rast Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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