March 04, 2009 Paris
Every look was constructed around a high-necked, raised-shoulder jacket, wrapped at the throat and falling away into various asymmetries beneath. Under that came two or three more layers of tunics or skirts (it was impossible to tell which) over leggings, and boots constructed from soft leather like some sort of Boccioni futurist sculpture. Sounds weird? Not at all to initiates of the beauty of Owens' leather jackets, and the utilitarian cool of practically every component he works in. In reality, what wearers know by heart is that the scary-chic of a Rick Owens runway look actually dismantles to fit an extraordinarily broad spectrum of shapes, lives, and ages. It's made him a huge influence on young girls and a resource for grown sophisticates alike: an American design hero whose time has come.