Before Martine Sitbon's models took to the catwalk, there was a huge Champagne spill as a waiter lost control of a flute-filled tray. It seemed entirely appropriate, given that the Sitbon girl has for decades proved herself perfectly capable of stumbling with carefree elegance from wild gig to wilder after-show. Eyes messily rimmed in glitter, she stalked this particular runway in a crazy collage of rock-chick cliché: One outfit alone combined a hoodie, schoolgirl pleats, sequins, and a body-limning techno fabric.

Such random contrasts were actually something of an intentional signature in the collection. A gray flannel dress with knit sleeves suggesting the Middle Ages, a strapless number over a fine mohair top, a midnight leather dress with semi-Napoleonic frogging—all evinced Sitbon's combination of acute tailoring and eye for odd detail (less so the silver short shorts and the black velvet corset belt, which muttered Led Zeppelin arm candy circa '72). The leitmotif of the collection was the hood, worn as a crepe cowl or unzipped and capelike. Matched with Sitbon's leggings, it created a strong, seductive silhouette that made you wish the average rock chick had this much taste.