Rue du Mail
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, March 4, 2009
By Tim Blanks
Before Martine Sitbon's models took to the catwalk, there was a huge Champagne spill as a waiter lost control of a flute-filled tray. It seemed entirely appropriate, given that the Sitbon girl has for decades proved herself perfectly capable of stumbling with carefree elegance from wild gig to wilder after-show. Eyes messily rimmed in glitter, she stalked this particular runway in a crazy collage of rock-chick cliché: One outfit alone combined a hoodie, schoolgirl pleats, sequins, and a body-limning techno fabric.Such random contrasts were actually something of an intentional signature in the collection. A gray flannel dress with knit sleeves suggesting the Middle Ages, a strapless number over a fine mohair top, a midnight leather dress with semi-Napoleonic frogging—all evinced Sitbon's combination of acute tailoring and eye for odd detail (less so the silver short shorts and the black velvet corset belt, which muttered Led Zeppelin arm candy circa '72). The leitmotif of the collection was the hood, worn as a crepe cowl or unzipped and capelike. Matched with Sitbon's leggings, it created a strong, seductive silhouette that made you wish the average rock chick had this much taste.
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Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan Hutson -
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Iceberg Io Ipse Idem Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Ossie Clark -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh Twenty8Twelve -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
