Tao
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, March 7, 2009
By Nicole Phelps
It's never easy parsing the origins of Tao Kurihara's collections. This season, one front-row type guessed Scandinavia or Russia. Another suggested Turkey or maybe Mexico. Backstage, the Rei Kawakubo disciple first cited cake decorations, but then revealed it was Eastern Europe that captured her interest. The former explains the frothy silhouettes of her baby-doll dresses, quilted jackets, and dirndl skirts, as well as the ribbonlike prints and embroideries. The latter gave the collection its red, black, and white color palette, the folkloric striped flower prints, and the black velvet bows, as well as the smocking on her pantaloons.This was undoubtedly one of Kurihara's more whimsical efforts—an impression underscored by the Frida Kahlo swipes of red face paint across the models' brows, the cloudlike hats, and the white patent-leather oxfords with clownlike proportions. But there were pieces that have serious crossover potential—the little red and black sweaters smothered with bows, for starters, or the sack dresses in crushed velvet and striped florals that were worn over white poplin button-down shirts. Still, Kurihara is nothing if not a dreamer. You'd hope there was still room for some of that spirit in this strange new world.
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Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan Hutson -
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Iceberg Io Ipse Idem Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Ossie Clark -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh Twenty8Twelve -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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