"This Fall we're really pushing it. We want to evolve our collection and push our customer," Tory Burch said before her military-goes-Pop presentation at the Prince George Ballroom. If stretch-leather leggings done the Tory way read more tomboy than tough, that's as it should be: Burch isn't designing for hard-rock hell-raisers but for blue-blooded businesswomen.

And the label did take a step forward this season. Even when revisiting old favorites like the mariner shirt, peacoat, and biker boot, the effect was a lot less preppy than in the past. It was easy to see Burch's work appealing to customers outside the Southampton-Fifth Avenue territorial range. Leggings paired with a black sequined top were very Edie Sedgwick, as were fur vests and a light, spangled racerback dress. A petal-strewn winter-white ensemble, very textural, and a tomato-red coat delivered for latter-day Baby Janes. Famous for 15 minutes? Not Burch. This collection of covetable and accessibly priced classics clearly demonstrates her staying power.