Tuleh
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 15, 2009
By Laird Borrelli-Persson
Bryan Bradley recently reread Them, Francine du Plessix Gray's memoir of her parents—Alexander Liberman (of Condé Nast) and Tatiana du Plessix (the model and society milliner), who fled the Nazis in 1941—and he was struck by how germane to our New World these Russian émigrés' spirit of resourcefulness and adaptability was. The designer, who recently sold a stake in his company, is in the throes of his own burst of self-reinvention: He'll soon debut a diffusion line called Bryan Bradley, he's launching an accessories collection, and there's the new interiors business, too. (The latter explained the rugs used as props at the show, held at the New York Design Center.) Although he dresses uptown girls, Bradley has never been a conformist, so it shouldn't come as a surprise that he is in expansion mode just as others are tightening their belts.From the first look, winter-white pants worn with a mannish shirt and jacquard jacket, this was one of the designer's most confident—and dapper—efforts yet. Menswear touches added crispness to a lineup that had all the usual Tuleh charm, minus the hodgepodge quality of some past outings. Unexpected fabrications added interest, too—take the flash of sequins enlivening a mauve-y rose-print dress, or a sleeveless hoodie done in luxe jacquard. One has the sense that Bradley is, at last, feeling at home in his talent.
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Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear
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Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hutson -
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Iceberg Io Ipse Idem Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Ossie Clark -
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Paul Smith Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh Twenty8Twelve -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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