Sienna and Savannah Miller were talking up a storm about the runway debut of their collection, Twenty8Twelve, which now has two stores in London and sells to many others around the world. Not that they were adamant about declaring any runway theme. "It started off as a grunge collection in one direction, then as a glam collection in the other," said Sienna, "and then it all met somewhere in the middle." Or, as Savannah put it, "Pirates of the road meets Grace Jones," adding that from the business point of view, "we're in a good place to show. It's selling well, and I think it's relevant to be able to show a commercial, contemporary collection in London. It's normal in New York. There should be things girls can really afford." Her sister—a style leader every British tabloid reader has followed since she reinvented boho—agreed: "We just want to do what girls want to wear, really," she said.

Even though the Millers' brand has a big corporate backer in the form of the Spanish jeanswear manufacturer that is behind Pepe, the show was very much a first-steps affair. All young designers—even relatively well-off ones—need time to develop, and between the spray-on stretch jeans, the padded-shoulder T-shirts, the slouchy beanies, and the downbeat washed-out color, there wasn't much that isn't already standard young fast-fashion. There's strength, though, in Twenty8Twelve's leather jackets, a staple they can work on as a signature. Savannah noted that none of them retail at more than £500, which is reason enough for young customers to start watching the line. As Topshop has learned, pushing design ever further only increases salability as well as silencing critics who say that such labels have no right to show during a fashion collections week. Now that Twenty8Twelve has an official time slot awarded it by the British Fashion Council, too, the onus is on these two girls to step up to the competition next time.