There was a seat reserved for Kanye West at United Bamboo. Apparently the rapper has blogged about the brand. And even though West was a no-show in the end, there was still plenty of support on hand for Thuy Pham and Miho Aoki. Waris Ahluwalia, Chiara Clemente, Sissel Kardel, the Confetti System trio, Sean Lennon, James Iha (who did the music), and Rita Ackermann (who designed a print used in the collection) were front and center. So was Terence Koh, the art world's reigning It boy—and UB campaign model. How does Koh define the label's appeal? "United Bamboo's clothes remind me of being a schoolgirl or boy," he said. "They have a sense of innocence."

Cue look one: a shapely gray melton wool jumper worn over an organdy blouse. Later on, there were plaid-bodied and white-collared "cleric" shirts. The outstanding looks in this collection, though, were the grown-up architectural coats, constructed with hexagonal and triangular pattern pieces—and a lighter hand than in the past. Less convincing were fanciful metallic jacquards that jarred with otherwise sober—and at times seriously chic—tailored pieces. That's not to say there was no fun in the lineup. In keeping with Pham and Aoki's aim to make things "more dressed up," there were two sweet and simple cocktail dresses that should help the wearer create a stir.