Emanuel Ungaro
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
PARIS, March 8, 2009
By Nicole Phelps
Third time was the charm. After struggling to connect with the Emanuel Ungaro legacy, Esteban Cortazar has come up with a Fall collection that not only stayed true to the house founder's go-go eighties joie de vivre, but at the same time proved he's keyed in to what the nightclub set likes to wear now. That would be a fits-like-a-glove draped-and-wrapped strapless dress with bold tights and sky-high heels. His little party frocks came every which way: color-blocked in shades of royal blue, orange, and fuchsia; in multicolored polka dots; and beruffled in Ungaro pink and black. Sometimes Cortazar tossed on a stamped black leather motorcycle jacket and a very French silk scarf around the model's neck; other times it was a cropped and cutaway blazer in a menswear plaid.On the tailored side, a blue leather jacket and high-waisted satin pants with fanlike pockets on the hips could be contenders for party types who've aged out of microminis. Only the knits—bulky and not nearly as expensive-looking as the price tags will demand—fell flat. Overall, too, the show could've used a tighter edit, but that's something that Cortazar can get the hang of now that he's figured out his raison d'être.
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Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear
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3.1 Phillip Lim -
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Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan Hutson -
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Iceberg Io Ipse Idem Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Ossie Clark -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
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Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh Twenty8Twelve -
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Undercover United Bamboo -
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William Rast Wunderkind -
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Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
