Vena Cava
REVIEW
COMPLETE COLLECTION
NEW YORK, February 14, 2009
By Laird Borrelli-Persson
"If we were acoustic before, now we're digital," said Sophie Buhai, applying an apt metaphor to the evolution of Vena Cava (which she designs with Lisa Mayock) from pretty and print-strewn to sparkly and somewhat darkly punkish. As if to drive home the point, bedazzling shreds of 30,000 CDs repurposed by the artist Marisa Tesauro filled the inside of a triangular show platform that supported 21 models in specially created Via Spiga shoes and clothes that were all grown-up sexy.Titled "Crystalarium," the collection was inspired by a neighbor of Mayock's who worked as a "gem huntress" in the eighties. Back were the tough leggings and the signature long dresses with cutouts showing slices of skin; new this season were motorcycle jackets, exposed zippers, studs, holographic sequins, and metallic fringe.
Holographic sequins might sound like a chancy move, but these girls have never played with fool's gold. The CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund award runners-up for 2008 have great sell-through with their "wearable novelties," as they phrase it, so for Fall they focused on adding "never-seen-before detailing" to familiar silhouettes and staples, making the ordinary quite a bit more extraordinary. There were perhaps fewer surprises than some might have liked, but the show was easy to take a shine to.
/
/
/
see all designers ›
Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear
#
|
A
|
B
|
C
|
D
|
E
|
F
|
G
|
H
|
I
|
J
|
K
|
L
|
M
|
N
|
O
|
P
|
R
|
S
|
T
|
U
|
V
|
W
|
Y
|
Z
|
-
#
3.1 Phillip Lim -
A
-
B
-
C
-
D
-
E
Elie Saab Elie Tahari Elise Øverland Emanuel Ungaro Emilio Pucci Emporio Armani Erdem Erin Fetherston Etro -
F
Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
G
Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
H
Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan Hutson -
I
Iceberg Io Ipse Idem Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
J
-
K
Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
L
L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
M
-
N
Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
O
Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Ossie Clark -
P
Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
R
-
S
Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
T
Tao Temperley London Thakoon Threeasfour Tibi Todd Lynn Tommy Hilfiger Topshop Unique Tory Burch Tracy Reese Trovata TSE Tuleh Twenty8Twelve -
U
Undercover United Bamboo -
V
-
W
William Rast Wunderkind -
Y
Y-3 Yigal Azrouël Yohji Yamamoto Yves Saint Laurent -
Z
Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
ERROR:
