Guests were greeted by small white-leather envelopes perched atop dust bags marked "Delvaux." Veronique Branquinho, the Belgian designer, has recently been named the luxury-goods house's artistic director. Presumably that means her own nearly 12-year-old label will benefit from an influx of cash—which would surely come in handy in a climate like this one. Tellingly, she had traded in her former show venue, a gloomy third-arrondissement garage, for a well-lit new space.

Location aside, this was a fairly typical Fall for Branquinho, mixing masculine and feminine elements and weaving a lot of knitwear in with the tailoring and drapery. (Among the sweaters, a chunky hand-knit cream-colored knee-length cardigan stood out.) While others have shown an awful lot of black on their runways in the past few weeks, she worked predominantly in shades of white and ivory, an optimistic choice that may make this collection a beacon for buyers.

At the top of their list? An ivory smoking jacket with satin lapels worn with a long, narrow charmeuse skirt (hemmed with Mongolian lamb) that looked like a winner in the runway-to-reality stakes.