Viktor & Rolf
PARIS, March 9, 2009
By Nicole Phelps
With Greco-Roman sculptures as a backdrop, Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren sent out a Fall collection based on classical draping. It's become an important trend this season, but leave it to the eccentric Dutchmen to tweak it mightily. They swagged liquid jersey to create suits that resembled nothing if not theater curtains, but preferred mostly to carry out their experiments with stiff woolens in shades of off-white, stone, loden, and black. The folds that decorated the opening coat looked as immobile as those you might see on the marble muse Melpomene at the Louvre. On other pieces, like a vest and a long skirt, they seemed to have been pressed flat: 3-D decorations rendered in 2-D. Even more peculiar was a long skirt faceted like diamonds, made from a leaden material reminiscent of concrete.To be clear, there were some elegant pieces—notably a soft gray dress topstitched in a trompe l'oeil style to evoke ruffles, or the printed silk chiffon shirtdresses—and these have a plausible future off the runway. But with the models' faces and necks whitened, the better to resemble the statues behind them, the concept obscured the clothes.
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Fall 2009 Ready-to-Wear
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Fendi Francesco Scognamiglio -
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Gap Gareth Pugh Giambattista Valli Gianfranco Ferré Giles Giorgio Armani Givenchy Graeme Black G-Star Gucci -
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Haider Ackermann Halston Helmut Lang Hermès Hervé Léger by Max Azria House of Holland Hussein Chalayan Hutson -
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Iceberg Io Ipse Idem Isaac Mizrahi Isabel Marant Issa Issey Miyake -
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Kai Kühne Karen Walker Karl Lagerfeld Katy Rodriguez Kenzo Kinder Aggugini Koi Suwannagate Kris Van Assche -
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L'Wren Scott Lacoste Lanvin Lela Rose Libertine Limi Feu Loewe Louise Goldin Louis Vuitton Luca Luca Luella Luisa Beccaria Lutz & Patmos Lyn Devon -
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Naeem Khan Nanette Lepore Narciso Rodriguez Nathan Jenden Nicole Miller Nina Ricci -
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Ohne Titel Organic by John Patrick Oscar de la Renta Ossie Clark -
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Paul Smith Women Peter Jensen Peter Pilotto Peter Som Phi Philosophy Pollini Ports 1961 Prabal Gurung Prada Preen Pringle of Scotland Proenza Schouler -
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Salvatore Ferragamo Shipley & Halmos Sinha-Stanic Sonia Rykiel Sophia Kokosalaki Sophie Theallet Stærk Stella McCartney Stephen Burrows -
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Zac Posen Zero + Maria Cornejo
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