Deconstructing classic pieces and putting them back together a little askew, Victoria Bartlett played with shapes this season. Seaming on knits formed new contours, and there were unexpected openings here and there—as on a pair of long, turtleneck sweater dresses slit all the way up the sides—that allowed the designer's signature underpinnings to peek through.

While bandagelike back-brace belts left some models looking like they'd suffered a serious injury, the majority of the looks were well-made, slightly off-kilter basics. And that's something customers are investing in more and more these days.